Veteran's Day Tour of Yamaguchi Day 2

12 November 2016

Day 2 of the long weekend was focused on reaching the Japan Sea on the western side of Yamaguchi prefecture.  I haven't spent any time in this area and was really interested in  riding along the seaside.  I wanted to make it out to the islands to the west but just didn't have time this trip.  Guess it's good to not reach all your goals the first go around, keeps you coming back for more.

Day 2 were all new roads for me crossing western Yamaguchi prefecture.  Distance 154 km.

After passing through Mine city I took route 435 to Kottoi village.  The road skirted around a golf course, this bridge was strictly for golf carts, seemed an awful lot of trouble to go to in order not to build a cart path through the rice paddy.  But I guess it's also an indication of priorities.

As I got closer to the coast the hills got a little less steep but the wind started picking up.  Was actually a little demoralizing to see the wind turbines in the distance because of the visual representation of the headwinds to come.  I leap frogged these two cyclist a few times coming out of Mine city,  I could never quite stay on their wheel after they passed me.  They were out for a Saturday fitness ride and I was loaded down with gear.

Made it to the Japan Sea at Kottoi port.  The water was quite calm in the bay and the wind wasn't nearly as strong as I had expected.  At this point I jumped on route 191 and followed it the rest of the day till I reached my destination at the town of Susa and the ECO Village campground.

While stopped at a Lawson's (convenience store) to refuel, I caught the local train passing by.  It didn't look too full but I imagine it's quite a pleasant trip up and down the coast.

Little hamlet nestled in the small river delta and small bay formed by the hills as they pushed into the sea, it was a beautiful day for riding the eastern coast.

Quick stop in Hagi to enjoy my favorite guilty pleasure (although I really don't feel guilty...gave that up years ago).

Just after dinner stop my front wheel was feeling a little soft, I only had another 20km to go and the sun was setting so I pumped it up rather than changing the tube and hoped to make wait till I made the campground to swap it out.  The small island had a Torii gate and small shrine, it was easily visible from the road but this picture isn't quite clear enough given the fading evening light.

An interesting little train station on the coast route, most looked very similar to this one which leads me to think this train line may not be in service much longer since the station's aren't getting much care.  The declining rural population and availability of low cost automobiles means the trains just aren't the lifeline they once were to rural Japan.

Made it to the ECO Village Campground after dark, the office closed at 5 p.m. so I found myself a spot to pitch the tent.  There was only one other family tent camping.  In addition to tent sites this campground has a number of cabins.  After setting up my tent and eating a little more food I went off in search of what facilities were available and as luck would have  it there was a coin shower.  Unfortunately I didn't think this through very well because I only had two 100 yen coins.  The shower gives you about 3 minutes per 100 yen which turned out to be more than enough time.

Veteran's Day Tour of Yamaguchi Day 1

11 November 2016


I've taken the opportunity over the last few years to use the long weekend to explore some of the country out my back door here in Yamaguchi prefecture.  Although I've discovered many of the routes within a hundred kilometer radius of Iwakuni once you get beyond that point it seems the options of finding new and interesting roads are endless.

Day 1 consisted of mostly familiar roads from Iwakuni to a campground just north of the Akiyoshidai karst plateau, distance 149 km.

Luckily the rain passed through the night before and I ended up having clear weather all three days of the trip.

The first flash of fall colors was this golden ginkgo tree 

Passing through the mountains of southwest Japan in early November can be hit and miss for fall colors, but seems there's always something that makes you stop for a closer look.  These contrasting maple and ginkgo trees over the torii made me pull over for a peak at the shrine.

In addition to exploring new roads my ulterior motive was to visit the brewery and restaurant, St. Remy de Provence a few kilometers south of Yamaguchi city.  The restaurant is modeled after a German chalet and they make their own sausage and brew a variety of unique (for Japan) beers.

When you have mug of stout and fresh baked pizza with local sausage to look forward to it makes the kilometers go by quickly.  I toyed with the idea of buying a couple of bottles to carry with me for the next two days but ultimately decided I really didn't need the extra weight.  I'll be back.

After my late lunch I had another 50 km to go and ended up riding into the campground after dark.  I did make it in before the onsen closed.  The campground at Akiyoshidai has a few cabins and many tent sites.  If  you're hiking or biking in the spots are 1000 yen ~ $10 (US) per night and if you want to soak in the bathes (and I don't know why you wouldn't) it another 400 yen.  The bath closes at 8 p.m.